clive’s buildteam.com blog

Scratches or small gouges in pre-finished hardwood floors can ruin the look of the whole floor, and allow moisture to get down into the wood, causing rot. It’s usually best not to try to refinish a pre-finished floor as part of the repair process because you probably won’t be able to match the existing finish.

Epoxy glue is an excellent filler for chipped tiles, as it dries rock-hard and can be painted to the color of the tile. Floor-grade polyurethane gloss with keep the paint from coming up.

• Open the epoxy glue. If the glue come in two separate tubes that have to be mixed, mix them according to the instructions on the packaging.
• Put a dab of the epoxy over the chipped area. Use the end of a toothpick to work it down into the fissure and smooth it along the top, so it’s flat. Let the glue dry overnight.
• Buff the dried epoxy very gently with extra-fine sandpaper, getting it completely smooth. Wipe away the dust.
• Paint over the epoxy with paint the same color as the tile, using a small paintbrush. Apply the paint only over the dried glue, not the surrounding tile. Let the paint dry for eight hours.
• Brush a thin layer of polyurethane gloss onto the painted area. Let it dry to the touch. Lightly buff the polyurethane with extra-fine sandpaper. Apply a second layer of polyurethane. Let it dry overnight.

Tiling the walls around your tub is the classic approach, and still arguably the best, in terms of attractiveness and wall protection.

Here is how you do it.

The easiest way to repair cracked, crumbling, or otherwise damaged plaster is with more plaster. The proper procedure to ensure a strong, flat repair job is to fill the hole or crack with plaster, lay drywall tape over it, then plaster over the tape in layers, sanding each layer as you go. Plan on repainting the whole area after you’re done.

Well a temporary solution would be to rub down and paint over the area with a water blocking paint, something oil based usually works, or tile the area. Temporary solutions are unfortunatley  just that and the only way to cure the problem satisfactorily is to damp proof, or in your case I think ‘tank’ the room.

You’ve essentially got 2 options: 1. invest in one of those inflatable balloons or 2. board off the chimney with timber. Personally, I’d go for the timber option - it’s the old fashioned way, and it will give you a more secure finish (I have heard that the balloons tend to deflate after a year or so). I’d use 18mm MDF board - make a template out of cardboard, cut your MDF to size and hold in place using 2×1″ battons fixed to the inside of the chimney breast. Depending on the size of your breast (as it were), you may struggle to get a drill to the timber at right angle. In which case, I’d use no-nails to fix the batton back. Remember to allow the no nails to go off overnight before fixing up the MDF.

The method of constructing floating shelves depends very much upon the span the shelves have to bridge. If it is narrow say 300-500mm you could probably get away with some thick MDF. If the span is more you will want to either use much thicker heavier timber or build a frame for the shelf and clad it with MDF. You can also buy specially made brackets which are two prongs which are attached to the wall and are designed to penetrate into the back of the shelf supporting it in this way. Please call me with your dimensions and I can give you some more specific advice.

This all depends on personal preference and budget. Personally I think that the ‘all’ glass option looks best but as is often the way it’s also the more expensive. The whole idea of the side return extension really should be to make your kitchen light and bright while increasing the space, full glass therefore acheives this best.